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Every evening they come to sit by the shore to await the sunset: a family of six visiting from some distant land. During the day the parents may have dined in style or gambled in the glitzy casinos downtown. The kids may have gone snorkeling or diving, or perhaps drove an ATV across the arid, moonlike surface of the northern coast. The evening, though, is the time when they all come together as a family to watch the sun dip down below the water. In the tangerine light of another Aruba sunset, they hug and laugh, six happy silhouettes against the Caribbean sky.

Cruise ships gleam in Oranjestad Harbour, while thousands of eager tourists scavenge through souvenir stalls looking for the perfect memento. The mile-long stretch of L. G. Smith Boulevard is lined with cafés, designer stores, and signs for the latest Vegas-style shows. The countryside is dotted with colorful cunucu (country-style houses) and small neighborhood shops. Suddenly, the rocky desert landscape is startlingly austere.

Aruba offers an amazingly diverse experience in a small package. Tourists flock here for the sunny climate, perfect waters, and excellent beaches—so much so that the area around beautiful Eagle Beach is an almost unbroken line of hotels, restaurants, and bars. Here on the south coast, the action is nonstop both day and night, while the fiercely rugged north coast is a desolate and rocky landscape that has so far resisted development.

History and Culture

As with Bonaire and Curaçao, the island was originally populated by the Caquetio, an Amerindian people related to the Arawak. After the Spanish conquered the island in 1499, Aruba was basically left alone, since it held little agricultural or mineral appeal. The Dutch took charge of the island in 1636, and things remained relatively quiet until gold was discovered in the 1800s.

Like the trademark watapana (divi-divi) trees that have been forced into bonsailike angles by the constant trade winds, Aruba has always adjusted to changes in the economic climate. Mining dominated the economy until the early part of the 20th century, when the mines became unsustainable. Shortly thereafter, Aruba became home to a major oil-refining operation, which was the economic mainstay until the early 1990s, when its contribution to the local economy was eclipsed by tourism. Today, after being so resolutely dedicated to attracting visitors for so many years, Aruba's national culture and tourism industry are inextricably intertwined.

With more than half a million visitors a year, Aruba is not a destination that will appeal to those trying to avoid the beaten path—but you should visit Aruba if you're looking for a pleasant climate, excellent facilities, lots of nightlife, and no surprises. The U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere, and English is spoken universally, which makes Aruba a popular spot for Americans who want an overseas trip to a place that doesn't feel foreign. In fact, Americans go through U.S. customs right at the airport in Aruba, so there are no formalities upon landing in the United States.